By Grant
I am not sure why reflecting on periods of your life can feel so emotional. Is it perhaps the thought that those moments are gone forever. Sent deep into our memory bank and only ever to be remembered when we haul out a picture reminding us? Reminding myself of the past 8 months in French Polynesia is emotional. So much happened, so many experiences, so many memories, so many amazing people both local and cruisers met and so many places I will probably never again visit in my life. I guess when you look at it this way you can understand why it feels so emotional.
Many friends write me messages and make comments on my posts about how lucky we are to be doing this with our family. This is obviously true. But I wanted to respond to this because over the years we have been away I have often thought that seeing our posts and reading our blogs must be quite depressing if you are in the meat grinder at work, or you have no work at the moment or if you are a struggling entrepreneur like I had been most my life. I hope that our posts don’t bring sadness or resentment but rather inspiration and hope. This journey has always been my dream and to do it with my family is possibly one of the most important goals I set myself in my life. I am proud to be here but more importantly I am just happy to have reached this goal but though the process of reaching ones goals we set out new goals and already we are doing more and trying more. But more on this a little later in the post.
First a quick summary. Big Alex left us way back in October. So much of the past year has been just our little family and Apple. Our journey through French Polynesia (FP) consists of three parts. First the Marquesas, 15 Islands on the North East of FP, then the Tuamotus, 79 Atolls in the centre of FP and finally the Society Islands, 14 Islands on the West of FP. We obviously didn’t explore all of these islands but we did visit over 20 in total. It is fair to say that each of these areas are so incredibly different they could and perhaps should be different countries. Without getting into a Geography debate, their age defines their nature. The Marquesas are typical islands you would encounter with high mountains and great topsoil. The Tuamotus are Atolls which consists only of a barrier reef and a lagoon. The barrier reef is always growing through the growth of the coral. No decent topsoil and no water catchment making it a difficult but beautiful place. And finally the Society Islands which are blessed with both the centre island with big mountains and topsoil, a surrounding lagoon which is fenced in by a coral barrier reef. And famous for Bora Bora which many people know.
For us, we spent most of our time in the Tuamotus and loved it immensely. Sometimes it isn’t always about the place but about the people you meet and in the Tuamotus we had met some incredible people and had an amazing time.
Highlights of the past 8 months
Arriving in Fatu Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia after the most incredible 15 days sailing ever to the drama of a broken windlass (anchoring motor) and the exhaustion at fixing it. The incredible mountains and the amazing walks we did. The mind blowing experiences with still the biggest Manta Rays we’ve seem in our lives and the exquisite beauty and care the local community place in their islands. The cleanliness and very organised nature in which these Islanders look after their home. The downside was the ocean water was alway a little murky and no matter how used to the water you get you are never comfortable swimming in murky waters with large predators around. I don’t have any clue why because I can’t see any difference in your chances of survival when you see them coming?
After leaving Marquesas we experienced more highs and lows. Catching the black marlin on route to the Tuamotus with my little crew, was a definite high, to destroying our parasail in too much wind which was definitely a low. But it is safe to say that the Tuamotus brought us great joy. It also brought us many visitors. We firstly had my Mum join us before she headed to the Antarctic for her lifetime dream trip, followed by the Mehta family. Then my Brother Craig, Carolyn and Anna Rose and finally my parents-in-law and my sister-in-law Elkie. All the visitors we think had a great time and saw a very different world we were in but also the very different way we were living our lives. We hope we brought them some comfort that we are ok and not suffering like perhaps some think we are. And we are safe like some think we are not.
The Tuamotus gave us probably some of the best diving we will ever experience in our lives. We hosted 2 more Smartkat regattas including the marriage breaker which paired husband and wives together. We finally saw the massive Hammerhead and a Tiger Shark in Tikehao and the history of Makatea. The Tuamotus also brought us Morton and a deep knowledge of the trials and tribulations of this beautiful country.
Like so many countries we have visited in our journey to date. Colonialism has played such a huge part of their development and sadly almost always in our experience a pretty devastatingly negative impact. The displacement of most of the population in these Atolls across French Polynesia, during the nuclear testing periods from the 1960’s to the 1990’s pretty much destroyed the fabric of this small communities of which almost none exist anymore. The benefit to the colonisers was obvious to see. They learnt about their nuclear technology and all the locals fled to Tahiti and west French Polynesia where it was so much easier to control a population in one place. But even these poor folks were affected by the atomic cloud of radiation. Studies have shown that almost all of the 110,000 people living in French Polynesia at the time were effected. And with the enormous levels of thyroid cancer it is there for everyone to see. Coming from South Africa, we perhaps more than most other nations are acutely aware of the catastrophic effects of imperial colonisation. The sad reality is across the tropics it is everywhere. From West Africa, to the Caribbean, to the Pacific and even the South China Sea. In my humble opinion, sadly nothing good came from colonisation. Except obviously my ancestors and therefore me. (Just kidding)
Spending the quality time we did with various local inhabitants of FP we realised the hardships they live under. We also realised how easy basic life was due to the guilt ladened grants from France. These grants are clearly there to help but sadly they create a dependancy which further destroys the culture of what was typically a hard working community. Today many just live with the very basics and don’t aspire for more. However we met a few very different people. Morton Palmer was one of these people. Well into his sixties he was working daily to try and build a little farm on the Atoll of Tuoa. He inspired us with his work ethic and determination in terribly challenging conditions. We knew of him as “The Egg Guy” and that’s how we met. Searching for “The Egg Guy”. After getting to know him, he entrusted us to look after his little farm for a few days whilst he was away and we truly got to see the challenges he works under. Furthermore we had experienced the ruthless pricing of fresh fruit and vegetables in these little communities. All of which must be imported and therefore crazy expensive. Anecdotally we bought a watermelon for 100USD. Or R2500. Could you imagine this living in South Africa?
Truth is the whole experience got me thinking that perhaps there is a way we can contribute by finding a way to provide fresh vegetables at reasonable prices. Not so different from my MBA thesis and terrible flop of a book, we realised that the best contribution we can make to this society is by including them in the ecomomy and trading with them. Through trade and farming we would reduce prices and make life significantly more sustainable. Therefore Delphine and I decided to invest in Mortons little Atoll of Tuao and hopefully build a hydroponic facility which will provide at least the core population of around 15,000 people on Rangiroa and Fakarava with some quality fresh vegetable. We definitely don’t think this little venture will change our lives but it certainly could change the lives of these small communities and hopefully it will. Naked Farm. Who would have thought?
Highlights of the Tuamotus were, diving diving and diving. And more diving and sharks. Goodness me is it a special place to dive. Clarity beyond your wildest imagination. Sadly the reality is I probably won’t ever enjoy diving again until I can forget the colours and clarity of the Tuamotus. Roasting sucking pig with Guston and Valentina and learning the nuances of the tides and passes of Tuamotus. These are my memories I will cherish and never forget about this wonderful place.
Finally we arrived in the Society Islands. Perhaps a week or two before we planned but because we planned to meet the Lowry’s who we had last seen in the Caribbean. Fortunately, Adam and Mara rented their own boat so we got to cruise with them through the Societies and because they had been here before they were a wonderful knowledge base into the area and its anchorages. Furthermore, the kids were thrilled to see each other again and I was was thrilled to learn more from Adam re Kiting and foiling which has now become a addiction. Thanks Adam!
We loved the Societies. After many months in the Tuamotus with limited access to stuff we were not displeased to be in a place where we could easily get what we needed. Unfortunately we still have a few vices after being at sea for so long. But exploring the capital city of Tahiti on the lsland of Papeete was interesting but to be honest I think we were all happy to leave the city and head back out into the ocean almost as soon as we had arrived. All except Azania who at 4 and has now lived most of her life at sea is always entranced by the buildings. And she is always asking are we going to a place with houses. I think the whole building thing is quite a novelty. Quite ironic for a little girl born in Hong Kong.
The societies brought both Arabella and I to a new level of kitesurfing. Both of us progressed enormously. Arabella now comfortably out kiting by herself without Daddy lurking in a dinghy and I have progressed to Kite-foiling in the light conditions which is great fun. We also enjoyed some great biking, hiking and more birthday parties. A special highlight for the girls was our visit to the Four Seasons in Bora Bora and to Mom and Dad the anchorages of South Raiatea (Nao Nao) and in Huahine. I could highlight many many moments but as I sail across the pacific towards Tonga I can only think of the sadness we feel for saying goodbye to our buddy boat Dragonfly and their amazing kids.
Rarely in life do we get to meet true kindred friends who make such an incredible impact on your life. This is the case for the Pollards onboard Dragonfly. Tama (my now Godson) and Luca were like two sons I never had. For almost 2 years these incredible boys would bring the energy of youth to our boat. The excitement of wanting to try and do everything and the enormous desire to learn from their Dad and I. You boys are very special and I think I probably enjoyed your company even more than your Dad’s. Naomi was a dear friend to both Arabella and Alex which is not always easy but showed enormous maturity to share her love equally which brought such happiness to my girls. I think it is safe to say they will always remain friends for life. But most importantly was Lee and Azania and their many marriages. Wow, I never knew so much love could be shared between 4 year olds (Lee is now 5) but just like a real marriage they would love, flight, love, kiss and make up endlessly for days, weeks, months and years. This love and friendship is what makes sailing these faraway islands such a bliss. Watching these innocent children grow so close brings so much reward to us as parents.
To Simon, thanks for all the wisdom, for all the help and mostly for the simple love and friendship. We will miss you all on Dragonfly, it is not goodbye but just Later Aligator until next time.
At the same time we say goodbye to many boats we have enjoyed over the past few years. SV Kithara, Waterdogs, Milonga, Folia, Orhana, Kissanga (more on this special Italian and his amazing crew in separate post) and Gladan. Some will take a break from sailing, some will stay for another season and some will just be moving on west later than us. I suspect we will see many of them again not before long. Being together with other boats can be terribly rewarding as this group certainly has. But there is also a time for needing to explore alone and feel the feeling of the great search and discovery the world brings. It is not always easy being so closely tied to the hip or bow if we are talking nautical phrases but these boats have made it easier than most. We have loved their company and I know my kids probably don’t agree with these sentiments but as they say… shit happens. Time to go even more Robinson Crusoe!
Where to next?
Well from here we enter the last leg of our Pacific Adventures with next up Niue (now complete) and then Tonga (just arrived), Fiji, Vanuatu and Australia ahead before we start northward towards Indonesia and Thailand. But lets not get ahead of ourselves. All things going to plan, you can expect to find us in Tonga for most of June, Fiji for most of July and we will be arriving in Australia in August. Its all about Surfing and Kitesurfing for the next 3 months. Delphine is determined to concur Wing Foiling and I think you can expect Little Alex to finally be proficient in kitesurfing. Its going to be fun for sure.
Hey Simon, what could possibly go wrong?
Oops