By Delphine
During our ARC (Atlantic Rally Crossing) in 2021, we met a few dozen family boats and we were pretty much cruising together in the Caribbean for the season. However most of the boats subsequently either returned to Europe, continued sailing in the Caribbean or to the US. Only a handful of boats decided to go west to the Pacific. Dragonfly (New Zealand/French), Waterdogs (Canadian), Kithara (German) and Arabella were the four remaining boats and we became very close friends (both parents and children). In Bonaire, we met the Swiss boat Milonga and the five boats sailed together for some time. Soon after it became apparent that different boats have different sailing plans and schedules. We and Dragonfly were eager to cross Panama Canal to get to the Pacific, while the others had other travel plans before going to the Pacific. So in June 2022 we had one final 3-day bash (with five boats tied up in a Star of David) and bid our farewells to Waterdogs, Kithara and Milonga.
The captains kept in close touch with Grant and Simon but they were basically two months behind us. We have now been in the Tuamotus for three months while they have been in the Marquesas for two months or so. We needed to sail west to the Society Islands and really wanted to see them before we go. Finally they were convinced to sail to the Tuamotus for turquoise blue water (water in Marquesas is murky) and to see us. The three boats joined us in Toau which is our favourite atoll in the Tuamotus at the end of January.
Can’t believe it’s been seven months since we last saw them! Even though we’ve only known them for just over a year, cruising friendships are really intense. There is a special and strong comradeship amongst sailing families who share similar goals, challenges and tribulations. The dads (captains) spent hours talking about sailing, weather, anchorages, fishing, diving, fixing engines, sails and basically anything that can break on boats. Moms share tips on provisioning, cooking, schooling, keeping order and sanity on boats, and we would sometimes arrange to go on walks, hikes and snorkelling trips together. Children just want to get together as soon as they finish school in the morning. Since we started sailing, we’ve really witnessed the development and growth of all the children and how they have become so independent and competent. They pretty much plan and do everything on their own without any adult supervision or involvement (need to ask for parents’ permission though). They drive dinghies everywhere, they go on shore to explore and play, they go snorkelling and spearfishing, they take turns wakeboarding while one of them drives the dinghy, they bake cookies and cakes, play cards and board games and organise bonfire/ hot dog parties on the beach.
We were all ecstatic to see each other after such a long time. Waterdogs was like Santa Claus and brought everybody the most precious thing in the Tuamotus – fruit!!! We were gifted so many mangos, pomelos, bananas, lime!!!! It was like receiving gold.
We only had one week to spend with all the boats before we had to sail to Northwest Tuamotu. By now our entourage grew to eight with the addition of Six and Half (Slovenian), Black Mambas (Spanish) and Ahimsa (French). It was one hectic, fun and crazy week with two birthday beach parties, dinners and drinks on our boat and one huge pig feast for our farewell. Partying aside, we also managed to squeeze in a Sailrite sewing machine lesson, hair-braiding workshop and even moms’ aqua-gym workout sessions.
On our last day at the False Pass in Toau, everybody came over to say goodbye. We counted all in all twenty one adults and twenty two kids! It was a surreal scene that a huge crowd had converged on our boat in the middle of nowhere in the Pacific! Our party of 43 far exceeded the number of residents in the atoll which is nine. The girls were in tears saying goodbye to their boat friends and we also sensed perhaps this might be the last time we see some of our dear friends. As Arabella left the bay, we blew our horn and waved to our friends. We felt truly blessed to have met such a diverse and wonderful group of families from all over the world, and know they will be our friends for life.